Traditional Folk Textile Dyeing in Japan: Diversity and Continuity of the Craftspeople’s Ateliers (kōbō)

Conference: The Asian Conference on Asian Studies (ACAS2022)
Title: Traditional Folk Textile Dyeing in Japan: Diversity and Continuity of the Craftspeople’s Ateliers (kōbō)
Stream: Japanese Studies
Presentation Type: Live-Stream Presentation
Authors:
Maria J. Santamaria Hergueta, International Christian University, Japan

Abstract:

This ethnographic study explores the kōbō, the atelier where professional and amateur dyers produce traditional folk textile dyeing or katazome. It analyses three layers of meaning critical to understanding the importance of these kōbō in Japan: the physical space where katazome production processes happen; the social environment where its members forge relations; and the symbolic construction that contributes to cultural tradition, lineage, and heritage. A kōbō evolves through time and social changes. It will thrive, survive, or disappear depending on its ability to cope with challenges. Some of these affect the production of katazome (materials' availability, new technologies, finding a successor to a retiring craftsperson). Others impact the demand of katazome (modern lifestyles, fashion, imports of cheaply mass-produced dyeing). The twilight of kōbō illustrates the concept of tradition in crafts, questioning the consumers` understanding of authenticity, uniqueness, or "craftlessness". Recent initiatives try to palliate the situation and preserve this tradition.

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